By Carl Mickelson
For The News-Chronicle
"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - from "The Wind in the Willows"
It's unlikely that in the early 1900s, when Kenneth Grahame wrote those words, he was thinking about paddling the Mink River in Door County.
Yet, with the timeless joy that comes from "messing about in boats," he may as well have been. Door County is a hotbed for all types of watercraft. Two of the smallest and quietest vessels a landlubber ever laid eyes on are the canoe and the kayak.
And in the waters that swirl about the Peninsula, those boats, and their owners, have an especially nice kingdom to float about in.
Alicia Kersebet and her husband, Joel, are the owners and operators of Ecology Sports in Sister Bay. What makes Door County ideal for paddlers, she said, is there are areas that are good for beginners as well as places where the more adventourous can try to tame the water beasts.
Beginning paddlers, she says, can start out close to the edges of Clark Lake, Europe Lake or Kangaroo Lake. These lesser-known interior lakes of the county are more secluded and shallower than the more intimidating waters of Lake Michigan, Green Bay or Sturgeon Bay. She recommends the smaller lakes for the canoeist.
"Go somewhere small first to build your confidence," Kersebet said. After a couple years, you might be as daring as Rick Wylie's friend who paddled out to Pilot Island in Death's Door when the sea swells of April reached four to five feet high.
Wylie, a co-owner and operator of Bay Shore Outdoor Store in Sister Bay, who has been "in the business" for more than 20 years, would never do such a thing.
"Unless you're a Navy seal you should think twice about heading out into the lake or bay in April," Wylie said.
His friend knew exactly what he was doing. He's a professional cold water kayaker who's tested his meddle in the waters around the Alleutian Islands of Alaska and the Irish Sea.
Safety first
The first thing both Kersebet and Wylie stressed was safety and the huge impact weather can have on an outing.
Neither wants to scare people out of the water, but they want to be honest too. "Boaters have died out there and people need to realize that. Nature is not something to be toyed with," Kersebet said.
She feels that people need to know the skills and appreciate Mother Nature before they bite off more than they can chew.
"Take a safety course. If you take precautions you can enjoy it forever," she said.
Knowing when and where to paddle should be based on personal skill level, the equipment you own and the weather, Wylie said.
The safest time to go out on the open water is in July and August. That's when the water temperature is optimal and you have the most stable weather, he said.
Appearances can be deceiving though. Joel Kersebet said even though the weather is hot and pleasant, the water can be cold enough that hypothermia can set in.
"It takes a long time for the water around here to heat up," he said. A couple who taught kayaking died in June 2000 in Door County from drowning after hypothermia had set in. A young canoeist also lost his life in April under similar circumstances.
So, with the advent of the Internet, cable TV and weather radios, knowing the weather forecast for a day's expedition is absolutely essential. Severe weather conditions, like short afternoon thunderstorms can creep in, so one eye should always be kept on the horizon. Wylie's seen weather conditions in Door County turn from perfect to downright scary within a half hour.
But just because conditions on the lake or bay look too intimidating doesn't mean you should pack up and head to the movies. It's those days when the county's interior lakes and creeks may be a safer bet, Wylie said.
Depending on your skill level some paddlers may enjoy the obstacles Mother Nature brings. Kersebet knows some kayakers that look for waves and base their destination on which way the wind is blowing and how fast the waves are rolling.
These are lake surf kayakers, Wylie said, who combines the principles of surfing with the features of a kayak. The object is to find where conditions are ripe for breaking surf, which propels the paddler at a greater speed.
"You had better know what you are doing," Wylie warned.
Look to lessons
If you've never canoed or kayaked, lessons are a smart first step. Age and physical condition for paddling is not as limiting as it is for other sports. And with both canoes and kayaks being much lighter, anyone can go out on their own Kersebet said. Wylie's taught people as young as 10 and as old as 80 the fundamentals of paddling.
As with anything else, safety precautions need to be taken. Some standard rules they endorsed included: know what the weather is; know your own skill level; wear the appropriate clothing; always wear a life jacket; know if you need a wet suit or not; let people on shore know when you are leaving and when you are expected back; and know your limits.
"Our motto here is 'live to paddle again tomorrow.' If the conditions aren't optimal today, wait until they are," Wylie said.
He added that wearing the right clothing means wearing what is appropriate to the water temperature - not the air temperature. He recommends boaters wear some kind of "spray-top," or waterproof coat so that if you do get any wave action or rain you stay dry.
And in rougher conditions paddling with a wet suit is essential for kaykers and canoers.
With all of its lakes, harbors, bays, creeks, islands (and a canal), there is no shortage of diversity when it comes to choosing where you want to float paddle.
The counties interior lakes and creeks provide such wonderful paddling now because the water levels are at their highest levels of the year.
If Lake Michigan is your cup of tea, points of interest include: Rowleys Bay, North Bay, Moonlight Bay and Cave Point.
Most of the fun comes from finding your own special spots.
"Part of the fun is working your way through those creeks and finding isolated spots," Wylie said.
He prefers the lakeside during the tourist season but Green Bay can be just as delightful. Wylie recommends Peninsula Harbor or looking at the towering bluffs encapsulating Ellison Bay.
Although most paddlers like to keep within swimming distance from shore when they go out on bigger bodies of water, the many islands that surround the county entice some of the more experienced paddlers. Alicia Kersebet, an avid canoeist, likes to take in the Mink River when the water level allows her to.
Paddlers are drawn to open water for various reasons. It could be the solitude or the camaraderie, the silence or the surf. Whatever the reason, the waters of Door County are a great place to do it.
So when the busiest days of summer come calling, when you're tired of all the waiting in restaurants or for traffic to clear, remember you can strap your boat to the top of your car, drive 15 minutes from wherever you are and be completely alone. You can think to yourself because you may be the only one around for miles. Just you and the wilderness, messing about in a boat.